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These popular fruit trees can be planted in spring and autumn. Apple trees planted in autumn begin growing earlier in spring than those planted during the warm season.
Loam is the optimal soil type for apple trees. Soil acidity: pH 5.5–6.5. Choose a garden location protected from wind for apple saplings. Plant apple trees as far as possible from cherries, plums, raspberries, and currants.
Preparation of Apple Saplings
Each sapling must undergo a strict inspection before autumn planting. Only healthy and strong specimens are selected.
Dead, damaged, dried, and rotten roots should be removed with pruning shears or a sharp knife. A saw is strongly not recommended, because its teeth leave uneven, torn cut edges. Therefore, the best tools for this procedure are pruning shears and knives. Their blades cut cleanly, meaning the cut edges will be smooth and without additional wounds. If the tools are poorly sharpened, the cuts will turn into rough wounds, and new damage will appear on the roots, becoming a source of disease. The cut must be made straight across the root, not diagonally. A straight cut has a smaller surface area, therefore the wound surface is also smaller.
Carefully remove all growths, unusual swellings, broken, and crushed side roots from the sapling roots.
Second, shape the sapling’s root system so that no small roots growing inward from the central root remain.
Shorten excessively long roots. Cut straight across, not diagonally.
Cut only the skeletal roots. Do not touch thin and soft roots, because these are the roots that absorb water and mineral salts from the soil.
Prepare a paste or slurry from clay, cow manure, and water. Ratio: 1 part clay : 2 parts manure : 5 parts water. Dip the sapling roots into this clay-manure mixture immediately before planting. The clay-manure layer on the roots will protect them from drying out and help retain moisture.
If the sapling root system is very dry, soak the roots in a bucket of cold water before planting and keep them there for 18 hours.
Planting Apple Trees
Round holes with vertical sides are dug, 80–120 cm in diameter and 60–80 cm deep. The planting holes should be dug at least 2–4 weeks before planting, and preferably a couple of months before planting. This is necessary so that the soil in the holes has time to settle properly.
The upper fertile soil layer is placed in one pile, and the lower layers in another.
The upper fertile soil layer is placed at the bottom of the hole.
One third of the hole is filled with fertile soil and 100 g of superphosphate.
Stakes are driven into the edges of the hole. They should protrude approximately 0.5–1 m above ground level.
The remaining two thirds of the hole are filled with fertile soil. A bucket of water is poured in and allowed to soak into the ground.
The roots of the fruit tree sapling should be inspected, and damaged or diseased roots should be cut off. The branches should also be shortened by one third in order to restore the damaged balance between the root system and the above-ground part of the tree. If the branches are not shortened, the fruit tree will take too long to establish and adapt, and it will grow poorly during the first year.
Immediately before planting, it is worth dipping the roots into a liquid clay mixture. Then, without delay, while the roots are still wet, the sapling should be planted in the hole. In autumn, it is recommended to plant apple trees with roots in containers or with roots in a soil ball rather than with bare roots. In that case, they will survive autumn and winter more calmly. It is important that the roots are not damaged.
The sapling roots are placed on a mound of fertile soil in the hole so that the root collar is 4–5 cm above ground level, or at least level with the surface. If planted too deeply, the tree grows too slowly, becomes diseased, and begins fruiting too late.
The roots are covered with soil, which should be gently and carefully compacted.
A small mound may be formed around the tree to retain water above the roots.
The trunk is tied to the stake in two places: 15 cm from the ground and near the top of the stake. Place pieces of cloth or straw under the rope where it touches the trunk so that the trunk is not injured. Tying to the stake will greatly help the still weak plant survive the initial period.
Water immediately: 10 liters for each planted fruit tree. The next watering is after one week.
The soil around the planted apple tree may be mulched. Suitable mulch materials include sawdust, peat, straw, and lawn grass.
Freshly planted apple saplings should be watered once a week. In summer, during droughts, the water dose is increased to 3–4 waterings per week, with a dose of 10 liters per tree.
Apple Tree Fertilizing
Fruit trees can absorb fertilizers only if they sufficiently contact the roots. Therefore, fertilization should target the soil layers where the largest root mass is concentrated. The main root mass is found at a depth of 20–80 cm in fertile soil or 10–55 cm in low-fertility soil. The fertilizer absorption rate in soil and root depth also determine the choice of fertilization method.
The fertilizing area around the trunk is calculated using the formula:
S = 3.14 × 2D : 4
where D is the diameter of the root system, equal to the crown projection diameter plus 1 meter.
The first fertilization is performed in early spring. This consists mainly of 50–60% of the annual nitrogen rate. Fast-absorbing nitrogen fertilizers are best: liquid manure slurry, poultry manure, ammonium nitrate, or liquid urea with 10–15% of the annual phosphorus and potassium rate.
The second fertilization is performed one week before flowering to improve fruit setting. Use 10–15% of the annual nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer rates.
The third fertilization is carried out two weeks after flowering, after excess fruitlets fall. Again, use 10–15% of the annual nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium rates.
The fourth fertilization is done in summer, at the end of shoot growth in the second half of June, in order to improve fruit bud formation for next year’s harvest. Use 10–15% of the annual nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium rates.
Autumn fertilization of apple trees requires 50–60% of the annual phosphorus and potassium fertilizer rates. Nitrogen is not used, so as not to stimulate growth processes and increase the plant’s resistance to frost, and to avoid nitrogen leaching into deeper soil layers beyond root reach.
Organic fertilizer quantities for apple trees
Tree age | Amount of manure |
|---|---|
3–4 years | 15–20 kg |
5–6 years | 25–30 kg |
7–8 years | 40–50 kg |
9–10 years | 50–60 kg |
Surface fertilization with incorporation into soil
This method is very suitable for organic fertilizers. Fertilizers should be spread evenly across the soil surface. Solid nitrogen fertilizers such as ammonium nitrate or urea may also be applied this way. Soluble phosphorus fertilizers are not recommended for this method, but phosphate rock powder works very well, especially in light soils.
Surface fertilization without incorporation
If the soil is sufficiently moist, fertilization may be carried out using decomposed mown grass and mulching. Additional fertilization can be performed using mixtures of nitrogen, potassium, and soluble phosphorus fertilizers spread on grass in late autumn or early spring. Earthworms help transport nutrients to the tree roots.
Deep localized fertilization
Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied into holes, furrows, trenches, drilled channels, or niches, creating zones of high fertilizer concentration near the roots. This method is suitable for soluble phosphorus fertilizers and potassium. It may not suit poorly soluble fertilizers or light mechanical composition soils.
Fertilization at different depths
In highly fertile soils with thick humus layers, fruit tree roots are concentrated deeper. Accordingly, fertilizers are incorporated at varying depths:
closer to the trunk — into shallow furrows or holes,
farther from the trunk — into progressively deeper furrows and drilled channels.
Fertilizing autumn-planted apple trees
Unlike spring-planted trees, autumn-planted saplings may only be fertilized with phosphorus fertilizers that stimulate root growth.
High concentrations of nitrogen fertilizers may be disastrous during autumn and winter because vegetation may restart, preventing the plant from preparing for winter.
For the same reason, autumn saplings should not be fertilized with fresh manure. Fresh manure coming into contact with roots may cause root rot and death of the entire plant. Only well-rotted manure should be used.
Apple Tree Watering
An apple tree requires as many buckets of water as the tree has years of age. According to other experienced gardeners, 2–3 buckets once a week are sufficient. When watering with a hose, make sure the water is distributed evenly rather than concentrated in one point.
Apple trees should not be watered directly at the trunk but according to the projection of the crown edge. The absorbing root tips are concentrated along the crown boundary.
The first watering is performed at the beginning of summer during flowering.
The second watering is performed in June–July during active fruit formation.
The third watering is carried out in October before frost.
Water more heavily in June and the first half of July because apple trees require the most moisture at that time. Excessive watering during the second half of July and August is incorrect because trees prepare to stop growth and strengthen wood tissue.
Whitewashing Apple Trees
Benefits of whitewashing
Destruction of harmful microorganisms
Substances contained in whitewash, such as lime and fungicides, penetrate under the bark and destroy fungal spores and pest colonies.
Prevention of overheating
Winter sun can be deceptive. Sun rays, especially during thaws, cause bark burns. White-painted trunks reflect sunlight and protect bark from overheating and cracking.
Protection against temperature fluctuations
Whitewashing acts as thermal insulation, preventing bark from overheating during the day and freezing at night. Otherwise, bark wounds become ideal environments for bacterial infection.
Whitewashing stages
Manual bark and branch cleaning
Bark disinfection
Wound treatment
Whitewashing trunks
The bark must be cleaned of moss, dead bark, and lichens because pests and fruit rot fungi develop there.
Bark should be disinfected only in dry weather. Suitable solutions include 3–5% copper sulfate solution and other copper-containing products. A more ecological option is ash-soap infusion.
Tree wounds and pruning cuts are covered with garden wound paste.
Materials suitable for whitewashing
Harmful materials
lead-based paints,
nitro paints.
Suitable materials
slaked lime,
commercial orchard whitewashing mixtures,
acrylic paints with bactericidal and antifungal components,
mineral-based paints,
water-emulsion paints.
The higher the tree is whitewashed, the better. Both lower and middle branches should also be whitewashed.
The whitewash layer should not be thick — approximately 2 mm.
Protection Against Gnawing
In winter, fruit trees may be damaged by rodents, hares, and deer. Trunks should be wrapped with spruce branches or protected with metal mesh.
Apple Tree Pruning
Pruning distributes nutrients and energy proportionally throughout the tree, strengthens roots, forms the crown, and removes unnecessary shoots and branches that waste moisture.
Fruit trees should only be pruned in dry weather using disinfected tools. Wet wood is an ideal environment for infections.
First, the lower branches are pruned to the first retained side branches depending on tree height.
Then the tops are shortened:
dwarf apple trees — at 80–90 cm,
tall-growing apple trees — at 120–150 cm.
When forming a spindle-shaped crown for dwarf trees, the central leader may remain uncut together with 3–4 side branches.
Cup-shaped crowns are formed for tall-growing varieties using 4–5 side branches.
During the first years, branches growing too close together are removed:
0.8 m spacing for dwarf varieties,
1.2 m spacing for tall-growing varieties.
Branches growing inward, vertically, crossing, dried branches, and water sprouts are removed.
Cuts should be made directly at the branch collar.
Spring pruning is performed during vegetation before the end of flowering.
Summer pruning suppresses vegetative growth. Strong shoots and water sprouts are shortened.
Autumn pruning is safest from late October into November.
Pruning frost-damaged trees
The level of frost damage can be identified by wood color:
light brown — mild frost damage,
brown — medium frost damage,
dark brown — severe frost damage,
black — very severe frost damage.
Mildly and moderately damaged trees should be pruned in the second half of March before buds open.
Severely frost-damaged trees should be pruned later when swelling buds become visible.
Apple Tree Diseases
Disease | Symptoms | Causes | Prevention |
|---|---|---|---|
Apple Scab | Premature yellowing and leaf drop. Round dark green, brown, or black spots appear on leaves and later on fruits. Fruit skin cracks, and infected apples become small and misshapen. | Excessive use of mineral fertilizers instead of organic fertilizers. Insufficient manure or compost application. The disease develops in March–April. | Use more organic fertilizers such as compost, humus, and manure. Every two years, spread lime or dolomite flour around trunks. Spray fungicides in early spring before buds swell. |
Black Canker | Bark on trunks and main fruit-bearing branches blackens, peels, and cracks. Branches gradually dry out, and the entire tree eventually dies. | Use of aggressive fresh manure, especially poultry or livestock manure buried in soil and contacting roots. | Avoid root contact with fresh manure underground. Manure may only be applied on the soil surface. |
Common Canker | Young branches dry out. Bark reddens, cracks, develops wart-like growths, and wounds appear. | Fungal pathogens enter through wounds on trunks and branches during autumn. | Focus on wound treatment. Whitewash trunks in spring. Remove infected wood. Disinfect and seal wounds with garden wound paste or clay-manure mixture. |
Brown Rot | Soft brown rotten spots appear on fruits and spread rapidly. Grey and yellow wart-like fungal growths later develop. | Fungi enter fruits through wounds or through contact with infected fruit. | Destroy infected fruits and spray fungicides. |
Powdery Mildew | Buds, leaves, flowers, and shoots become covered with a white coating. Infected buds become elongated and fail to open properly. Leaves become narrow and brown at the edges. Premature leaf drop occurs. | Excessive nitrogen fertilization, especially during warm dry weather. | Remove infected shoots and branches in spring. Spray fungicides when buds begin turning pink. |
Signs of Mineral Deficiencies
Mineral Deficiency | Symptoms |
|---|---|
Phosphorus Deficiency | Dark red spots appear along leaf edges and veins. |
Nitrogen Deficiency | Leaves on lower shoots turn yellow. Shoots become short and thin. Leaves wrinkle and fall prematurely. |
Potassium Deficiency | Leaves develop a bluish tint. Dead tissue forms between veins. Shoots become thinner than normal, and shoot tips dry out. |
Boron Deficiency | Hard cracked brown crusts form on fruit surfaces. Fruits crack and begin rotting. |
Calcium Deficiency | Dark hard spots appear on fruits. Leaves become pale, curl, and fruits fall prematurely. |
Magnesium Deficiency | Leaves fall prematurely. Yellow and brown spots appear along veins. |